What is oud: the most precious ingredient in Arabian perfumery

If one word sums up Arabian perfumery, it is oud. It gives this shop its name and appears in hundreds of Middle Eastern perfumes. But what exactly is it?

Where oud comes from

Oud, also called agar or agarwood, is an aromatic resin that forms inside trees of the Aquilaria genus, native to South-East Asia. When the tree is infected by a fungus, it produces a dark, dense resin to defend itself. That impregnated wood is oud.

Because the process is slow and unpredictable and wild trees are scarce, natural oud is one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery. That is why many perfumes use oud accords that recreate its profile, often combined with small amounts of natural material.

What it smells like

Oud is woody, deep and complex. Depending on its origin and quality it can be smoky, leathery, resinous, slightly animalic or even sweet. It is a scent with a lot of personality: some people are fascinated from the first moment, while others need time to warm to it.

What it pairs with

In Arabian perfumery oud rarely goes alone. Its classic companions are rose, saffron, amber, incense and spices. Modern compositions also soften it with vanilla, tonka bean or gourmand notes.

How to start if you have never tried it

If oud feels intimidating, start with a perfume where it is paired with sweet notes. Momento by Riiffs, for example, combines oud with tonka bean, Bulgarian rose and saffron – a very gentle way to discover it.

From there you can explore our unisex selection or, if you are after something more exclusive, our fine perfumery.